There are two main flavors of hydraulic hand brake. Thoroughly test any work you perform! Lastly, hydraulic handbrakes are for off-road use only. Modifications to braking systems are particularly hazardous because brake failures are inherently dangerous. This article is for informational purposes only. The standard disclaimer applies: work on and modify your car at your own risk. Take the time to learn it now, and your installation will go smoothly. Fair warning: brake systems are pretty complex, so there is a lot of information in this article. The methodology we used is likely to work for many 90’s and 2000’s BMWs. These are our findings, and we hope they’ll help out future BMW drift builders. Nothing was available off-the-shelf like it is for more popular drift cars, so we had to do some research. When it came time to actually source parts and install the hand brake, however, we found that information was sparse for the E39 chassis. The wagon’s 4.4L V8 makes plenty of power, but still there are times when a quick lock of the rear wheels would be preferable to a clutch kick. locks up the rear nicely with hawk rear pads on stock s13 brakes.While building our rotting-in-a-field rescue BMW 540it wagon for drift, we eventually came to the conclusion that a hydraulic handbrake would make a nice addition to the car. So i replaced the whole rear brake hardline from the master to the passenger side of the engine bay. Now i have it replacing the stock location and have made a new handle for itĪnd this season i changed up the handle a bit i ordered the straight handle but they sent me the wrong one so on my old car i just made a new handle. Here is the bracket i made and you can see the hardlines going to the brake. Then i ran the other side of the brake to my passenger firewall where it enters the engine bay again and routes to the rear brake block bolted to my frame rail. i want to redo this part with a proper AN setup to bolt onto the fire wall. I started with a line from my master cyl through my firewall, then a junctions inside the car. With this i had to make a bracket to mount it on, and run some lines that i bent. I bought it off of some random rock climbing site i found on google. This thread could be a nice collection of info! If I could do it all over again I would have bought that and this right from the beginning and been done w it in an hour You will also need to find a spot to mount the new brake which will require some fabrication (welding a base at minimum) unless you remove your stock ebrake and buy this I haven't gotten it yet but I've heard they're good/quality parts. You will save yourself a major fucking headache.I probably spent 125 in gas driving around looking for the right hardware before I just broke down and ordered the install kit. If you CAN make your own lines then order the hardware kit from ASD shogunner just posted up a link to it.ĭef buy one or the other. If you can't bend/flare brake lines then just spend the 125 bucks and buy the install kit from enjuku (make sure you tell them it's for an s13, apparently the braided lines are dif sizes for s13/14). Tight from the kat Mani? WTF does that mean? You would re-route the rear brake line to run from the stock master to the hand brake master then from hand brake master to the tee block by your passenger rear brake (where the one rear brake line splits into two). Yes leave your stock brake cables on, unless you plan to remove your stock ebrake. what are the basics of it do you still run the e brake cables? what if my mc only has 2 ports and its already tight from the kat mani? what other parts do i need if i buy a k sport ebrake? I wanna do this mod on my s13 but have some questions. With a dual caliper setup you shouldnt have any issues at all bleeding. You should REALLY look into upgrading the pads. Has anyone else had these same feelings or is my set up lacking something that im overlooking. I feel like i paid a buch of cash to have a lower grade ebrake that requires a big ol goofy handle to work properly. I can see that with a long enough handle you can produce enough leverage to feel like its locking them up easy but thats all leverage. I thought a hydro was intended to be an updrade in locking power and make it easier to lock up the rear. The only way i can get it to lock up was extending the handle and even then its like 10x harder to lock up than with the stock z32 ebrake system. Im running a dual caliper set up with a ksport hydro (3/4 bore MC), -3An lines, with Z32 calipers, and new autozone cheapo pads. Is there anyone who is running a stock length handle with the hydro in the stock position? I tried and its impossible. I have a question for everyone with hydros.
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